Georgian Jewellery

What is Georgian Jewellery

Five English kings, four named George and one named William, reigned during the Georgian period which lasted from 1714 to 1837. It was during this time that jewellery making became a novelty, with jewellers becoming masters of their trades. Jewellery during the Georgian era had elaborate shapes and designs, that included stunning gemstones and natural flourishes. Georgian jewellery these days, has become a hugely popular item with collectors. 

Even though the name of the era obviously refers to England, it is not only this country that had a big influence on the jewellery culture. Various historical events in Italy, Germany, and France also had a big part to place in the jewellery designs and motifs of that period.

Significant characteristics of Georgian Jewellery

All jewellery from the Georgian period was handcrafted - a procedure that was extremely labour-intensive. For instance, gold ingots and other metals had to be hand-hammered into thin sheets by artisans, before they could even start making pieces of jewellery.

It’s not at all easy finding jewellery from this era, because at that time, jewellers frequently melted down the pieces that they felt were outdated, to make more modern pieces in line with current fashions.

Authentic Georgian jewellery with stamps is nowhere to be found, because gold assaying didn’t become compulsory until sometime during the 1900s. Maker’s marks - the marks that show the maker of the piece, are also non-existent, the reason also being because it was not enforced until the 1900s.

Also significant, is that jewellers of the time frequently set gemstones in closed-back settings, which included foil backings behind the gems, to increase their sparkle by candlelight. The foil work in these pieces of jewellery is extremely delicate and is ruined if it comes into contact with water.

Metal work in Georgian Jewellery

Incredibly elaborate metal work is the hallmark of Georgian jewellery, a feature that could only have been achieved with a high level of artistry. In addition to this, handmade jewellery does not have porosity (pitting on the surface of the metal), something that is often seen in jewellery made in today’s casting moulds. 

Metals that were most often used in Georgian jewellery included 18k or higher yellow gold, pinchbeck (17% zinc and 83% copper), iron, steel, and silver for gemstone settings. 

Metal techniques used to make Georgian jewellery

Different techniques were used on the metal parts of Georgian jewellery, including:

·       Repoussé – soft metal hammered into elaborate patterns and designs

·       Cannetille – intricate wire work that resembled embroidery-like filigree

Georgian jewellery motifs

Motifs like crescents, ribbons, flowers, leaves, bows, sprays of foliage, and feather plumes, were popular, as were glass and enamelled overlays.

The Baroque style, with its heavy ornateness and total symmetry, dominated until 1750, after which the Rococo style emerged, bringing the asymmetrical, light, open lines to jewellery.

Motifs were also influenced by wars and archaeological discoveries, for instance, from 1706 to 1814, with the excavation of the ruins of Pompeii, and in the 1760s, when Greek and Roman motifs like grapes and laurel leaves were highly fashionable. (Neo-classical Georgian pieces such as these are in huge demand these days).

Papyrus leaves and pyramids were also used as motifs from 1798 to 1799, after the news and discoveries of Napoleon’s Egyptian crusade. Napoleon’s European wars were the inspiration for Fer de Berlin jewellery.

Cutting styles and gemstones that were popular in Georgian jewellery

Gemstones

Until coloured gemstones made a comeback in 1750, jewellers used mainly diamonds in their jewellery pieces. From then on, a variety of gems was used in Georgian jewellery, including ruby, sapphire, topaz, garnet, shell, coral, chrysoberyl, agate, pearl, and diamond. Glass or paste started being used in 1780, as an alternative to gemstones.

Cutting styles

The most significant cutting styles for Georgian jewellery included:

·       Rose cut – round, with a flat bottom and domed top

·       Table cut – square shape with a flat bottom and top

·       Cabochon – flat bottom and rounded top

·       Briolette – faceted, teardrop shape

·       Old mine cut – rounded, many-faceted, square shape that looks much like the modern round, brilliant cut of today

Which Georgian jewellery pieces were the most popular?

Extremely popular and personal in Georgian times, were the memorial or hair jewellery items families would have specially made by jewellers to commemorate a loved one who had died. Also popular, were girandoles, which were bows or ribbons with three gemstones hanging from them, and rings in rectangular, oval, or navette shapes. It was also incredibly trendy to wear a pair of bracelets. Other fashionable jewellery items included:

·       Pendeloque – pear-shaped earrings

·       Cameos – carved from agate, shell, and coral, and used in brooches, necklaces, and rings

·       Chatelaines – belts from which people carried important accessories or tools

·       Necklaces – necklaces were extremely popular, especially chokers or dog collars

·       En Tremblant settings – attached parts of a jewellery piece to a trembler, to create movement, such as brooches and hair combs.

·       Parure – matching pieces ofjewellery with interchangeable parts, such as a brooch, which could be a pendant, or a necklace being separated and worn as two bracelets.

·       Fer de Berlin or Berlin Iron jewellery – Germans, in 1804, donated their expensive jewellery to help finance the war against Napoleon. In return, they were given similar pieces made from iron and engraved with “I gave gold for iron”/ “Gold gab ich fur eisen.” This jewellery was sand cast and lacquered black and remained fashionable even after the threat of war with Napoleon had passed. These days, Berlin Iron jewellery is incredibly valuable, and a highly sought-after collector’s item!

In conclusion

If you’re considering adding a piece of Georgian jewellery to your collection, then it’s important that you bear the following in mind: Although it is incredibly difficult to find authentic pieces, there are still many stunning hand-made works of art out there for you to get your hands on. They are true collector’s items that are worth every penny, if you do decide to invest in them. 

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